How could Water Affect on Pu-erh Tea's Flavor

经过2020年极具挑战的一年,我们给予了2021年更多的希望,传统春节后的第一次云上喝茶,我们特意选择2020年年末周重林先生的力作《茶之基本》为主题,择雄达茶城内一闹中取静、满室茶香的古茗茶坊,与大家一起闹《茶经》。

Since 2020 is a challenging year, 2021 carries great hopes for all of us, therefore, the first tea salon right after the traditional Spring Festival means a lot to us, as a result, we chose the book of FOUNDATION of TEA, wrote by Mr Chonglin Zhou, the famous tea culture scholar, spent an aromatic tea afternoon pleasantly in Yunnan Ancient Tea Factory( High-end Warehouse) .



国人特别讲究风水,古茗茶坊内水月洞天,百年古茶树下,涓涓细流,如身临其境茶山盛景。水是生命之源,国人恋水,因为水带财;茶人恋水,因为“茶性必发乎于水”。从唐代开始,茗战很大一部分是“水战”,留给了我们很多有趣的茶人轶事。其中,《茶经》中最经典的名句莫过于“山水上,江水中,井水下。”很多茶人朗朗上口,未必真的能理解其中的真谛(建议大家购买《茶之基本》细细看来)。

Fengshui matters to Chinese people, and it’s a nice tea room with good Fengshui in Yunnan Ancient Tea Factory, peaceful display of ancient tea tree, water fountain, and full of tea. Chinese people are fond of water because it brings us good fortune; Tea lovers like water because the flavor of tea relies on the water. Since the Tang dynasty, there are endless of water battles we are happy to know, and entertain us as well. Luyu, the tea sage mentions in his book that “ Mountain fountain water is the better, the well water is the worst, and rivers are in the medium ways.” It’s widely spread among tea people, while few of them truly understand its real meaning.


(第二期直播回顾片段 Partial review of the Previous Event )


为什么“山水上,江水中,井水下”?《茶经》中的解释有理有据,客观详实,是文科生的诠释。而理科生,则选择理性的解读,因此,我们选择了从麦德龙购买法国进口的依云矿泉水和农夫山泉水,以及昆明本地泡茶最主要的用水珍茗水进行对比品鉴,在以往对比品鉴的经验之上,我们意外又惊喜的得出了不同的结论,品鉴表如下:In order to understand this sentence better way, we prefer to do some practical experiments, so we bought French imported EVIAN Fountain Water, Nongfu Mountain Water, and choose the Zhenming Water, the major water source for brewing tea in Kunming, brewed the same tea. The results are out of expectation, but exiting as following:



珍茗山泉水 Zhenming Mountain Water

茶汤汤色黄明尚亮,青香高锐,略带花香和蜜香;滋味浓厚,苦涩平衡,生津回甘迅速、浓郁而持久。The color is yellow with slightly dark-bright, freshness dominates the aromas, there hints flower and honey aromas; The taste is intensive while well-balanced bitterness and astringency, ends with strong and fast thirst-quenching and after-taste sweetness, and long finish.


农夫山泉 Nongfu Mountain Water

茶汤浅橙黄透亮,青香浅而优雅,略带花香;茶汤甜润轻盈,涩重苦弱,欠平衡,中度回甘,余味稍短。The color is light yellow with transparent brightness, a greenish fragrance with a hint of flower aroma; the taste is sweet and plain ends with medium astringency and a short finish.


依云矿泉水EVIAN Mineral Water

茶汤橙黄油亮,带陈化的木质香和熟果香,略带花蜜香,口感温润顺滑,茶汤饱满醇厚,协调较好,回甘明显,生津较弱,韵味幽长,体感温和宁静。The color is oily bright with orange-yellow intensity. It has a complex aging woody and ripe fruity aromas with flowery and honey fragrances; The taste is softly smooth, round bodies with nice thickness, and well harmony. Although there lacks thirst-quenching, it has last-long sweetness and ends with pleasant peaceful body-feeling.


注:为了便于闻香、观色,我们选择了葡萄酒杯,按照1:25的的比列,投茶2克,进行对比品鉴。PS: In order to smell the aroma and see the color well, we chose the wine glasses, and the ratio of tea to water is 1:25.



总体来说三款不同商品水冲泡同一款茶,茶虽然是关键主体,但选择不同的水对茶是有影响的,正如那句“水为茶之母”。而茶圣陆羽对水的了解不仅是思维上考量也是耗费了很多时间去实地考证而得出“山水上,江水中,井水下。”更得出“茶之用水”洁、洌、细、漫、新、活的要义总结。Tea’s quality matters, however, the water can either upgrade its flavor or devalue it. We admire Luyu because he visited different mountains with his true eyes, and summarized that famous saying about the water based on lots of investigations. If we learn deeply, we could understand well that what Luyu wished to express is that good water for brewing tea should be clear, cold, soft, tranquil, fresh, and in good vitality.



周重林先生这本《茶之基本》将茶经放大,恰如其分的运用多位爱茶的文人墨客诗句作品及著名研究学者、茶客茶人的书籍文论用精准释译文言文,通俗易懂的方式引人入胜的去阅读,但又让人发人深省让人深思。其中讲碗这段,引发史学大家的批评:陆羽以瓷色为主要标准,只能算饮茶人的一种偏见。作者认为这当然是茶人的偏见,实用是偏见,审美更是偏见。因为有偏见才有一系列的茶器诞生,不然,都是酒器,生活用器,何来茶生活?陆羽追求的,是通过喝茶而实现的人生理想。Mr Chonglin Zhou magnifies the book of TEA CLASSICS in his book of FOUNDATION of TEA, turned the classical Chinese into beautiful sentences that we all love with reading, leading us to image what’s happening in the Tang dynasty. Of course, Luyu couldn’t win all, some of the later historians criticized him on the bowl he recommended by colors. I personally think it’s prejudice on Luyu’s prejudice for choosing the tea bowl, however, subjectivity is a kind of prejudice itself, take practicality or aesthetics for example, because of the prejudice, there created lots of new tea wears. What Luyu chased is the ultimate life goal.

试茶虽然需要严谨的科学态度但也需要有用一颗包容心来喝茶,也正是映射我华夏胸襟。不倚不斜,用不同视角去看待自己与身边的事物,观照他人反省自我是事茶人的一生的艺术之道。

We are fond of evaluating tea seriously while enjoy appreciating tea tolerantly, and tolerance is the breadth of mind. We all should learn to understand the same thing with different angles, and then achieve better us finally.


非常感谢古茗茶坊的友情赞助。本次结果仅仅为2018年的鹰窝山普洱生茶的品鉴结果,在此抛砖引玉,供大家交流学习。钟梅老师常常告诉我们“相信并验证”,茶友可通过左下角“阅读原文”购买品鉴套装,含古茗小众仓生熟高端古树品鉴样+葡言茶语4S品鉴卡+《茶之基本》。Thanks to our sponsor Yunnan Ancient Tea Factory( High-end Warehouse) , and today’s result is just referred to the raw pu-erh tea 2018 originated from Eagle-nest Mountain.Trust but to verify it is what Mabol told us very often, if you love tea, you can buy the sample set by clicking "read more" at the left bottom, including the book of FOUNDATION of TEA, raw pu-erh sample and ripe pu-erh sample, and 4S tasting card.


正如钟梅老师在课程《普洱茶品鉴与进阶》中所说,每一次的结果可能会因茶而已,感性喝茶,理性学茶,正是我们茶友的态度。现在,我已经开始期待我们下一期的“云上喝茶”主题茶会了。Each result may vary according to different teas, therefore, to drink tea sentimentally while study tea scientifically is the important attitude that we learned from the latest course of TASTING PU-ERH TEA. Now, I am looking forward to the next tea salon, how about you?




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